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General Paint Application Information


SELECT A PRODUCT

There are so many brand names, types of paint and such a wide variety of application possibilities we understand it may be difficult to choose so we welcome your calls and emails. We are here to help you make the right product choice. Please feel free to call us at 800-594-0445 or email info@topsecretcoatings.com. Top Secret Coatings carries a complete line of Architectural, Industrial, Marine, Floor, Roof, Kitchen & Bath, Pool & Deck, Automotive, Air craft and gov/mil spec paints and coatings. 

Much of your decision will be based on what type of material (or "substrate") you plan to coat. After taking into account what type of substrate you plan to coat and what it will be used for the next consideration would be  - what is its environment and how is it going to be used. Whether you are a home-owner and want to paint your home, garage floor or are re-doing your boat there is a Top Secret Coatings product designed to meet your needs. UV exposure, high traffic areas, high impact areas, floors, roofs, areas subject to chemical abuse, extreme temperature applications, acid or other chemical resistance properties or simply desired color and finish texture should be taken into account before you make your product selection.

Most Top Secret Products are government spec equivalents meaning it is very likely the Top Secret product you choose has been formulated to meet or exceed tough government specifications so you know you are getting the very best product available anywhere. The U.S government typically over specs and over builds so Top Secret Coatings products are often the latest in coatings technology utilizing the finest raw materials available. Our products are usually higher in solid content and are typically higher quality than what is usually available to the consumer. Top Secret products are used in marine, commercial, industrial and at home settings, and although they provide the highest level of durability they are often more costly than home center brands, however, you are assured the highest quality every time so “you never have to paint again!”  

There are special formulations for extreme temperatures, such as high heat or refrigeration. Coatings for high-impact floors such as industrial or manufacturing environments, special formulations for food handling areas, automotive service areas, and acid / chemical handling areas. Top Secret Coatings offers a complete line of residential, commercial and industrial epoxy and urethane coating products.

While researching our product line, please be sure to choose the proper primer, accelerator/hardener (if offered) and compatible top coat. Making the wrong selection may create an incompatibility issue causing  failure of the coating.

 

SAFETY SUPPLIES

Safety should always come first and safety supplies are an important part of many paint jobs. Paint safety supplies include various types of respirators and dust masks. The best protection from the fumes of paint is a respirator with a charcoal cartridge. The charcoal absorbs the harmful vapors and allows clean air to be inhaled. The same type of respirator is effective in the use of pesticides and other harmful vapors.
 

There are many styles of respirators. Comfort is important in enhancing compliance for wearing any mask or respirator. The face piece should be soft enough to mold comfortably to the face and yet provide a non-slip total seal around the mouth and nose. The valves should respond quickly making it easy to breathe.
 

Painting safety supplies may include disposable dust masks. These are very lightweight and comfortable. They are designed to filter out sanding dust. It is often necessary to do some light sanding when preparing the surface for painting or doing a sanding between applications. If the surface emits any toxin, it is best to use the respirator.
 

Disposable cartridges are some of the painting safety supplies offering the protection against inhaling toxins from the paint. The type of cartridge will be determined by the type of paint. It is necessary to know if the paint is water-based paint or oil-based paint. The filtering systems differ according to oil and non-oil particulates. The ratings are determined by NIOSH (National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health). Following these guidelines and the instructions from the manufacturer is the best way to protect yourself or your employees from harm.

CAUTION: Solvent based paints can be flammable. Always be aware of your surroundings. Extinguish all sources of ignition, pilot lights, open flame, etc. Ventilate the area where paint is being used by allowing fresh air to circulate. Open windows or use an exhaust fan with a motor designed to be operated in a hazardous atmosphere to avoid any explosions. For personal protection, we recommend using a NIOSH/MSHA approved respirator for use with paint solvents or organic vapors.

 

CALCULATE HOW MUCH TO BUY

In order for you to calculate how much to order, you will need to measure the length and width of the area. Multiplying the length times the width will give you the size of the area in square feet.

For example, a traditional 2-car garage floor is approximately 24' x 24', or 576 square feet. When calculating how much paint you will need for your garage floor you will always want to round your figures up because it is better to have a small amount left over than to run short while applying the product.

Once you have calculated the surface area, you will need to calculate how many coats of paint need to be applied to achieve the desired thickness, (which is measured in "millimeters" and usually referred to as "mils"). Typically this is two coats.

Each product description as seen on our website at www.topsecretcoatings.com specifies the coverage (how much area the paint covers) on a per gallon basis. So if the product you have chosen covers 300 square feet on a per gallon basis and you will be applying two coats you will require 4 gallons to cover 600 square feet.

 

SURFACE PREPARATION

 

At Top Secret Coatings we always say “preparation is everything”. It’s true, proper preparation is often the difference between a good job, one that has problems, a happy customer and an unhappy one. We want happy, repeat customers, so we really want to stress the importance of good surface preparation. Most coating failures are attributed to inadequate surface preparation.

 

When preparing surfaces to receive any primer, paint or coatings all normal surface preparation practices should be observed. The surface to be painted should be free of loose scale, rust, oil, grease, dirt, contaminates and moisture. Typically, substrates may be sanded, media blasted, power washed, cleaned with a detergent or similar product to prepare the surface for paint.

 

When painting over highly polished surfaces like aluminum, fiberglass, nickel, chrome or silver, the surface must be etched. All galvanized surfaces should be etched. We recommend TS 695 Rynolite Etching Cleaner in most applications used according to label directions. An alternative would be a solution of 10% Nitric Acid and rinse with warm water.

 

Rust may be removed with the use of TS 5679 Phos-Pro. Phos-Pro is more than a cleaner, it is a pre-treatment metal etch solution that cleans, etches and stops rust on steel surfaces by chemically changing iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate (black iron), a substance that turns the metal black leaving a temporary protective coating on the surface. Primer should be applied to the newly converted surface without delay to prevent rust from reemerging.
 

The burn off method may be used on metal substrates to burn-off unwanted oils. This is usually done by heating the metal to 400C (750F) or higher. Burn off still leaves a residue that must be removed, generally by mechanical means (blasting or mechanical cleaning.)
 

Concrete should be bead blasted, power washed or sanded to remove loose scale, contaminates or old paint. Once cleaned use an etching cleaner to open the pores and remove leaching lime. We recommend using a 50% TS 695 Rynolite Etching Cleaner and water solution according to label directions.

 

With the application of solvent based paint and coatings it is critical that the sub-straight has been allowed to dry thoroughly before moving forward. While water-based paint and coatings should also be applied to thoroughly dry substrates it is somewhat less important with them. All wood sub-straights should be 19% or less moisture content when receiving paint.  

 

 

 

 

WHEN TO APPLY

 

It is best when paint products are applied between 60-80 degrees F. For best results you will want to work when there is low atmospheric humidity or in a work area with low humidity. Many coatings are dew point sensitive, meaning they may cloud up when applied on high humidity, so you want to apply when humidity is low.

 

Never paint in direct sunlight. Paint shaded sides of your sub-straight moving with the sun when possible. Avoid painting in the hottest part of the day or when dew may settle on freshly applied paint.

 

 

THINNING:

 

Many paints will appear thick when cold. THIN WITH CAUTION! First warm paint to room temperature by placing container in a warm water bath. Next, stir paint thoroughly with a wooden stir stick, being careful not to damage can lining. If paint still appears heavy, thin sparingly with recommended thinner. lf paint is thinned too much it will lose its ability to cover. Typically, paints may be thinned 10-25% for spraying. Coverage will be affected by thinning.

 

 

APPLYING THE PAINT

A. BRUSHING

1. Re-suspend the paint before use by stirring or shaking. Most formulations re-suspend easily by hand shaking. Some may require rolling overnight or extended mixing, especially after long term storage.
 

2. Apply a thin, uniform layer of paint just like you would with any typical paint. Generally, a natural bristle  brush is will give you the best results, especially with more viscous paints. Avoid applying thick layers of paint because this can cause cracking as it dries. Paint applied too thick is very likely to spall during the curing process or when cooling from elevated temperatures.
 

3. Allow to thoroughly dry at room temperature. Heating of "wet" coating may cause the coating to spill.

 

 

B. ROLLING:

 

Typically paint is applied to interior and exterior walls and seldom used elsewhere so this information has been directed toward to wall paint applications. Please consider the following facts, and decide for yourself how you want the paint applied.
 

The average life of paint job is greatly increased when it is rolled or brushed. The average lifespan of a spray application is 3-6 Years while the average lifespan for a brush and roll job is 8 11 years. The difference is due to the thickness of the film. The average thickness of a sprayed application is 1.12 mils while a brush and roll application is on average 2.04 mils thick. The extra thickness that comes from brush and roll applications takes longer to wear away and is more effective in protecting your home from the elements.
 

Smooth out imperfections by applying drywall compound to any dings and dents. feather in patches by sanding them starting at the outside and sanding toward the center of the patch.

Setup your paint by pouring a couple of gallons of paint into a five gallon bucket. Hang a roller grid (available at most hardware and paint stores) on the rim of the five gallon bucket. Paint trays are unhandy and have a way of finding your feet. Attach the roller frame to an extension pole, a two or three foot roller pole will save time and your back.

Apply paint to the roller. Do not dunk or plunge it into the paint. Daub it into the paint, roll it up the grid in order to rotate the cover then daub it back into the paint until the entire cover is loaded with paint. Paint over all the patched areas with a light roller coat of the paint. This will lessen the likelihood of dull spots in the finished wall.

With a brush, paint ( "cut in") a three inch line into the inside corners, above the baseboard, and the top of the wall (at the ceiling).

Now it is time to load the Roller. Starting in a corner apply the paint (with a loaded roller) In a large "N" pattern, about three feet wide and a foot or so from the top and bottom of the wall. In order to keep a "wet edge" in your work area you will want to limit the work area size to 2 1/2 ft. - 3 ft. This is particularly important with paints with higher sheen levels. Priming the wall with a primer/sealer before you finish paint will also help keep the paint from setting up to quickly as you roll the wall.


Load the roller lightly. Starting in the middle of the wall and at the outside edge of the pattern roll down to within an inch of the baseboard and back up to within an inch of the ceiling and back down, ending at the bottom of the wall. Keep light pressure on the roller as you roll into the brushed paint at the top and bottom of the wall. Lay off this first section by working back to the wall corner.


Starting at about 3/4 the width of the roller, moving toward the corner, repeat the process as you go. Be sure to keep paint in the roller so you do not dry-roll the wall. Repeat this process until you reach the corner. Roll on the next section in the same way but lay off the paint, working from the wet edge of the previously painted section and into the N pattern of the dry section. Be sure to roll a few inches into the previously painted section. Always end the finish roll on the down stroke.

 

SPRAYING:

Always strain your paint carefully to avoid lumps that may clog your tip. For compatibility concerns, always be careful to use only recommended thinners. Avoid heavy spray coats.
 

A 4 to 8 mil wet film layer is ideal with most products with TS-100 1 Part Epoxy and TS-2 Hard-Shell Urethane being exceptions which go on at 1 – 2 mils max on a per coat basis. Typically, you will want to build up the thickness slowly to avoid running. Use short bursts rather than a continuous spray. This allows maximum control during spraying. Maintain a distance of at least 6 to 12 inches from the substrate to permit uniform coating. Too close of a position with the spray gun causes too heavy of a coating. Maintain proper gun and tank air pressure. Too high or too low pressure causes spotting of the coating. When these are not correct, the paint sprays as small blobs rather than a mist.
 

Use a sweeping motion for the gun and change the spray angle often in order to cover all pores, crevices, etc. Do not hold in one spot while spraying. Start the spray while not directed at the substrate when possible. Air guns often shoot out a heavy stream in the beginning until the correct air/coating mix is achieved. Adjust the spray cone angle for the best coverage using the gun adjustments. Always clean spray equipment carefully after use.
 

For the most efficient use of the gun, always make a careful check that all parts are the proper size and type, and are in perfect working order before operating. The following items can serve as a checklist:
 

Manifolds and Regulators: The CFM capacity should be at least one and one half (1.5) times the total capacity required by the equipment. A separate regulator should control the atomizing air and all gauges should be readable and in good working condition.


Moisture and Oil Traps
: In order to assure the least amount of contamination moisture and oil traps should be installed and drained daily (minimum) on all air lines at the spray booth. Traps must be installed on the lines at least 25 feet away from the air compressor.


Quick Disconnects
: Quick disconnects are not recommended for airless or high pressure systems, and may reduce the volume of air and fluids passing through them. If they are used, they should be the largest size available.


Hoses
: Hoses are used only for delivering air from a regulator on a main air line and fluids from the fluid pump to the gun. The standard hose length is 25 feet and should never exceed 50 feet. Hose capacity should match the volume delivery and pressure demanded by the gun when the trigger is pulled. Hoses must be capable of delivering the material at the volume and pressure rates dictated by the gun. There will always be a pressure drop from one end of the hose to the other.


CAUTION
: Construction materials for airless hoses and catalysts must be compatible. Always consult manufacturer's recommendations for proper hose.