Select a Product Safety Supplies Calculate Materials List Applying Paint Thinning Film Defects
Surface Preparation When to Apply Applying Pool Coat Products Applications for 1-Part Epoxy (TS-100)
Moisture Assessment Guide for Concrete TS-2 Urethane Applications for Marine Steel
Applying Super-Fleck EXP Fast Dry System TS-00 (1-Part Epoxy) Applications for Marine Steel
Applying TS-2 Hard-Shell Urethane to Existing Paint
Refinishing Tubs, Tiles, Shower Stalls, Hot Tubs and Countertops with TS-2 Hard-Shell

There are so many brand names, types of paint and such a wide variety of application possibilities we understand it may be difficult to choose so we welcome your calls and emails. We are here to help you make the right product choice. Please feel free to call us at 360-651-9050 or email info@topsecretcoatings.com. Top Secret Coatings carries a complete line of Architectural, Industrial, Marine, Floor, Roof, Kitchen & Bath, Pool & Deck, Automotive, Aircraft and MIL/SPEC paints and coatings.

Much of your decision will be based on what type of material (or "substrate") you plan to coat. After taking into account what type of substrate you plan to coat and what it will be used for the next consideration would be - what is its environment and how is it going to be used. Whether you are a home-owner and want to paint your home, garage floor or are re-doing your boat there is a Top Secret Coatings product designed to meet your needs. UV exposure, high traffic areas, high impact areas, floors, roofs, areas subject to chemical abuse, extreme temperature applications, acid or other chemical resistance properties or simply desired color and finish texture should be taken into account before you make your product selection.

Most Top Secret Products have been formulated to meet or exceed tough government specifications so you know you are getting the very best product available anywhere. The U.S. government typically over specs and over builds so our products are often the latest in coatings technology utilizing the finest raw materials available. Our products are usually higher in solid content and are typically higher quality than what is usually available to the consumer. Top Secret products are used in marine, commercial, industrial and at home settings, and although they provide the highest level of durability they are often more costly than home center brands, however, you are assured the highest quality every time so you won’t have to paint so often.

There are special formulations for extreme temperatures, such as high heat or refrigeration. Coatings for high-impact floors such as industrial or manufacturing environments, special formulations for food handling areas, high heat applications, automotive service areas, and acid / chemical handling areas. Top Secret Coatings offers a complete line of residential, commercial and industrial epoxy, alkyd, urethane and resin blend coating products.

While researching our product line, please be sure to choose the proper primer, accelerator/hardener (if offered) and compatible top coat. Making the wrong selection may create an incompatibility issue leading to failure.

SAFETY SUPPLIES

Safety should always come first and safety supplies are an important part of many paint jobs. Paint safety supplies include various types of respirators and dust masks. The best protection from the fumes of paint is a respirator with a charcoal cartridge. The charcoal absorbs the harmful vapors and allows clean air to be inhaled. The same type of respirator is effective in the use of pesticides and other harmful vapors.

There are many styles of respirators. Comfort is important in enhancing compliance for wearing any mask or respirator. The face piece should be soft enough to mold comfortably to the face and yet provide a non-slip total seal around the mouth and nose. The valves should respond quickly making it easy to breathe.

Painting safety supplies may include disposable dust masks. These are very lightweight and comfortable. They are designed to filter out sanding dust. It is often necessary to do some light sanding when preparing the surface for painting or doing a sanding between applications. If the surface emits any toxin, it is best to use the respirator.

Disposable cartridges are some of the painting safety supplies offering the protection against inhaling toxins from the paint. The type of cartridge will be determined by the type of paint. It is necessary to know if the paint is water-based paint or oil-based paint. The filtering systems differ according to oil and non-oil particulates. The ratings are determined by NIOSH (National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health). Following these guidelines and the instructions from the manufacturer is the best way to protect yourself or your employees from harm.

CAUTION: Solvent based paints can be flammable. Always be aware of your surroundings. Extinguish all sources of ignition, pilot lights, open flame, etc. Ventilate the area where paint is being used by allowing fresh air to circulate. Open windows or use an exhaust fan with a motor designed to be operated in a hazardous atmosphere to avoid any explosions. For personal protection, we recommend using a NIOSH/MSHA approved respirator for use with paint solvents or organic vapors.

CALCULATE YOUR MATERIALS LIST

In order for you to calculate how much to order, you will need to measure the length and width of the area. Multiplying the length times the width will give you the size of the area in square feet.

For example, a traditional 2-car garage floor is approximately 24' x 24', or 576 square feet. When calculating how much paint you will need for your garage floor you will always want to round your figures up because it is better to have a small amount left over than to run short while applying the product.

Once you have calculated the surface area, you will need to calculate how many coats of paint need to be applied to achieve the desired thickness, (which is measured in "millimeters" and usually referred to as "mils"). Typically this is two coats.

Each product description as seen on our website specifies the coverage (how much area the paint covers) on a per gallon basis. So if the product you have chosen covers 300 square feet on a per gallon basis and you will be applying two coats you will require 4 gallons to cover 600 square feet.

SURFACE PREPARATION

At Top Secret Coatings we always say “preparation is everything”. It’s true, proper preparation is often the difference between a good job, one that has problems, a happy customer and an unhappy one. We want happy, repeat customers, so we really want to stress the importance of good surface preparation. Most coating failures are attributed to inadequate surface preparation.

When preparing surfaces to receive any primer, paint or coatings all normal surface preparation practices should be observed. The surface to be painted should be free of loose scale, rust, oil, grease, dirt, contaminates and moisture. Typically, substrates may be sanded, media blasted, power washed, cleaned with a detergent or similar product to prepare the surface for paint.

When painting over highly polished surfaces like aluminum, fiberglass, nickel, chrome or silver, the surface must be etched. All galvanized surfaces should be etched. We recommend TS-695 Etching Cleaner in most applications used according to label directions. An alternative would be a solution of 10% Nitric Acid and rinse with warm water.

Rust may be removed with the use of TS-5679 Phos-Pro. This product is more than a cleaner, it is a pre-treatment metal etch solution that cleans, etches and stops rust on steel surfaces by chemically converting iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate (black iron), a substance that turns the metal black leaving a temporary protective coating on the surface. Primer should be applied to the newly converted surface without delay to prevent rust from reemerging.

The burn off method may be used on metal substrates to burn-off unwanted oils. This is usually done by heating the metal to 400C (750F) or higher. Burn off still leaves a residue that must be removed, generally by mechanical means (blasting or mechanical cleaning.)

Concrete should be bead blasted, power washed or sanded to remove loose scale, contaminates or old paint. Once cleaned use an etching cleaner to open the pores and remove leaching lime. We recommend using a 50% TS-695 Etching Cleaner and water solution according to label directions.

With the application of solvent based paint and coatings it is critical that the sub-straight has been allowed to dry thoroughly before moving forward. While water-based paint and coatings should also be applied to thoroughly dry substrates it is somewhat less important with them. All wood sub-straights should be 19% or less moisture content when receiving paint.

WHEN TO APPLY

It is best when paint products are applied between 60-80 degrees F. For best results you will want to work when there is low atmospheric humidity or in a work area with low humidity. Many coatings are dew point sensitive, meaning they may cloud up when applied on high humidity, so you want to apply when humidity is low.

Never paint in direct sunlight. Paint shaded sides of your sub-straight moving with the sun when possible. Avoid painting in the hottest part of the day or when dew may settle on freshly applied paint.

THINNING:

Many paints will appear thick when cold. THIN WITH CAUTION! First warm paint to room temperature by placing container in a warm water bath. Next, stir paint thoroughly with a wooden stir stick, being careful not to damage can lining. If paint still appears heavy, thin sparingly with recommended thinner. lf paint is thinned too much it will lose its ability to cover. Typically, paints may be thinned 10-25% for spraying. Coverage will be affected by thinning. All spray applications require straining.

APPLYING THE PAINT

A. BRUSHING

1. Re-suspend the paint before use by stirring or shaking. Most formulations re-suspend easily by hand shaking. Some may require rolling overnight or extended mixing, especially after long term storage.

2. Apply a thin, uniform layer of paint just like you would with any typical paint. Generally, a natural bristle brush is will give you the best results, especially with more viscous paints. Avoid applying thick layers of paint because this can cause cracking as it dries. Paint applied too thick is very likely to spall during the curing process or when cooling from elevated temperatures.

3. Allow to thoroughly dry at room temperature. Heating of "wet" coating may cause the coating to spill.

B. ROLLING:

Typically paint is applied to interior and exterior walls and seldom used elsewhere so this information has been directed toward to wall paint applications. Please consider the following facts, and decide for yourself how you want the paint applied.

The average life of paint job is greatly increased when it is rolled or brushed. The average lifespan of a spray application is 3-6 Years while the average lifespan for a brush and roll job is 8 11 years. The difference is due to the thickness of the film. The average thickness of a sprayed application is 1.12 mils while a brush and roll application is on average 2.04 mils thick. The extra thickness that comes from brush and roll applications takes longer to wear away and is more effective in protecting your home from the elements.

Smooth out imperfections by applying drywall compound to any dings and dents. feather in patches by sanding them starting at the outside and sanding toward the center of the patch.

Setup your paint by pouring a couple of gallons of paint into a five gallon bucket. Hang a roller grid (available at most hardware and paint stores) on the rim of the five gallon bucket. Paint trays are unhandy and have a way of finding your feet. Attach the roller frame to an extension pole, a two or three foot roller pole will save time and your back.

Apply paint to the roller. Do not dunk or plunge it into the paint. Daub it into the paint, roll it up the grid in order to rotate the cover then daub it back into the paint until the entire cover is loaded with paint. Paint over all the patched areas with a light roller coat of the paint. This will lessen the likelihood of dull spots in the finished wall.

With a brush, paint ( "cut in") a three inch line into the inside corners, above the baseboard, and the top of the wall (at the ceiling).

Now it is time to load the Roller. Starting in a corner apply the paint (with a loaded roller) In a large "N" pattern, about three feet wide and a foot or so from the top and bottom of the wall. In order to keep a "wet edge" in your work area you will want to limit the work area size to 2 1/2 ft. - 3 ft. This is particularly important with paints with higher sheen levels. Priming the wall with a primer/sealer before you finish paint will also help keep the paint from setting up to quickly as you roll the wall.

Load the roller lightly. Starting in the middle of the wall and at the outside edge of the pattern roll down to within an inch of the baseboard and back up to within an inch of the ceiling and back down, ending at the bottom of the wall. Keep light pressure on the roller as you roll into the brushed paint at the top and bottom of the wall. Lay off this first section by working back to the wall corner.

Starting at about 3/4 the width of the roller, moving toward the corner, repeat the process as you go. Be sure to keep paint in the roller so you do not dry-roll the wall. Repeat this process until you reach the corner. Roll on the next section in the same way but lay off the paint, working from the wet edge of the previously painted section and into the N pattern of the dry section. Be sure to roll a few inches into the previously painted section. Always end the finish roll on the down stroke.

SPRAYING:

Always strain your paint carefully to avoid lumps that may clog your tip. For compatibility concerns, always be careful to use only recommended thinners. Avoid heavy spray coats.

A 4 to 8 mil wet film layer is ideal with most products with TS-100 1 Part Epoxy and TS-2 Hard-Shell Urethane being exceptions which go on at 1 – 2 mils max on a per coat basis. Typically, you will want to build up the thickness slowly to avoid running. Use short bursts rather than a continuous spray. This allows maximum control during spraying. Maintain a distance of at least 6 to 12 inches from the substrate to permit uniform coating. Too close of a position with the spray gun causes too heavy of a coating. Maintain proper gun and tank air pressure. Too high or too low pressure causes spotting of the coating. When these are not correct, the paint sprays as small blobs rather than a mist.

Use a sweeping motion for the gun and change the spray angle often in order to cover all pores, crevices, etc. Do not hold in one spot while spraying. Start the spray while not directed at the substrate when possible. Air guns often shoot out a heavy stream in the beginning until the correct air/coating mix is achieved. Adjust the spray cone angle for the best coverage using the gun adjustments. Always clean spray equipment carefully after use.

For the most efficient use of the gun, always make a careful check that all parts are the proper size and type, and are in perfect working order before operating. The following items can serve as a checklist:

Manifolds and Regulators: The CFM capacity should be at least one and one half (1.5) times the total capacity required by the equipment. A separate regulator should control the atomizing air and all gauges should be readable and in good working condition.

Moisture and Oil Traps: In order to assure the least amount of contamination moisture and oil traps should be installed and drained daily (minimum) on all air lines at the spray booth. Traps must be installed on the lines at least 25 feet away from the air compressor.

Quick Disconnects: Quick disconnects are not recommended for airless or high pressure systems, and may reduce the volume of air and fluids passing through them. If they are used, they should be the largest size available.

Hoses: Hoses are used only for delivering air from a regulator on a main air line and fluids from the fluid pump to the gun. The standard hose length is 25 feet and should never exceed 50 feet. Hose capacity should match the volume delivery and pressure demanded by the gun when the trigger is pulled. Hoses must be capable of delivering the material at the volume and pressure rates dictated by the gun. There will always be a pressure drop from one end of the hose to the other.

CAUTION: Construction materials for airless hoses and catalysts must be compatible. Always consult manufacturer's recommendations for proper hose.

FILM DEFECTS IN LIQUID COATINGS

This information has been prepared by the Top Secret Coatings staff to help you achieve good results when spraying our top coat products. If you need further information please feel free to call the help desk at 866-868-2168 M-F 8AM to 5PM PST.

ORANGE PEEL

Repetitive bumps and valleys similar to the surface of an orange characterize Orange Peel in a paint film. CAUSES: Orange peel results when the freshly applied paint film does not flow out smoothly. Taking measures to ensure that the paint flows out satisfactorily can prevent orange peel. Steps should be taken to:

Prevent dry spray. Atomizing air pressure should not be excessive. Solvents should not evaporate too fast. The distance between gun and target should be monitored. Proper spray procedures should be used.

Atomize paint properly. Atomizing pressure and paint viscosity should be monitored closely. To rule out cold paint (a cause of high viscosity) and poor atomization, bring paints inside at least 24-36 hours before they are to be applied.

Monitor paint film thickness. A sufficient film build is necessary to ensure a good paint flow out. Film thickness should be monitored frequently.

Check surface smoothness. The smoothness of the substrate should be verified before you begin to paint. Primer smoothness can be achieved by proper sanding.

FISH EYE

Fish Eyes appear as craters where the paint pulls away from the center occurring immediately upon spraying. Fish eyes are caused by contamination of the surface being coated. Contaminates including water, oil, silicone, wax and grease remover left on too long all can cause fisheyes. Water leftover from wet sanding often cause fish-eyes.

EXCESSIVE DRY SPRAY

This occurs when excessive solvent evaporates from the atomized paint particles either en route to the target or too quickly after reaching the target so that satisfactory paint flow out is impossible. Excessive solvent evaporation en route to the target can be caused by over atomization, by applying paint in which a solvent’s evaporation rate is too fast, or by too mush distance between the gun and target. Over atomization creates excessive atomized particle surface area, which increases solvent evaporation. Excessive solvent evaporation after the atomized particles are deposited on the target may be caused by maintaining high booth temperatures or high part temperatures, and by an improper solvent balance. Excessive distance between the gun and target can occur from poor operator technique. For example, too wide a spray fan pattern can make the spray at the edges travel an excessive distance to the target.

POOR ATOMIZATION

This can be caused by insufficient atomizing air pressure, overly high paint viscosity, and fluid pressures set too high in conventional and HVLP air spray. Fluid pressures set too low with airless and air-assisted airless application also cause orange peel. Low paint viscosity may be from heaters not working correctly or from improper mixing of paint.

LOW FILM BUILD

Overly thin coatings can be caused by improper application parameters and usually have insufficient flow.

ROUGH SUBSTRATES:

Paint films cannot level rough or uneven substrates. A metal surface or primer that is rough will automatically produce roughness in the topcoat.

RUNS, SAGS AND CURTAINS

Paint applied on vertical surfaces may flow downward in various amounts before the curing process hardens the film and stops the flow. All such downward flows are termed runs or sags. The term curtain is used because the lower portion of extended runs and sags may resemble scalloped lower edges of some styles of drape and curtains.

Causes: The causes of runs, sags and curtains are almost always due to applying a coating too thick or too wet. One cause of applying a coating too thick can include a dirty gun.

A dirty gun, especially clogged air passages in the tip, can distort the normal spray pattern and make the application heavy in some areas. Immersing a spray gun completely into a container of solvent for cleaning can cause this situation. If the entire gun is put into solvent the dirty solvent will be forced into the gun air passages. Paint-laden solvent can dry in the air passages leaving behind paint solids that will clog them or reduce their operating effectiveness.

MOISTURE ASSESSMENT GUIDELINES FOR CONCRETE

Moisture created flooring problems on concrete from vapor emission, dew point, alkalinity; pH, etc. cause millions of dollars in repair and replacement costs annually. By recognizing potential problems, testing for and mitigating them, steps can be taken to ensure a long lasting, successful flooring installation.

What is Moisture Vapor Emission?

“Moisture” is added to turn cement and aggregate into a concrete slab. There is a critical volume of water needed to “cure” the concrete, and an excess volume of water used to make the concrete pourable and workable. This excess water needs to be emitted so it is below 3 lbs/1000 sf/24 hours as measured by calcium chloride before a non-porous floor covering is applied onto the slab. Do not rely on the old “28 days” rule of thumb.

What is Moisture Vapor Transmission?

Moisture Vapor Transmission is movement of moisture that is not part of the concrete mix. It could be from ground water, plumbing, or landscaping runoff, etc. This moisture is a concern when the concrete slab has no vapor retarder installed, or the vapor retarder has been punctured.

What are “high moisture levels”?

High moisture levels are vapor transmission levels of greater than 3 pounds per 1000 square feet/24 hour period (tested by the Anhydrous Calcium Chloride Method).

How does moisture move through the slab?

Capillary moisture: ground water touches the bottom of the concrete slab, and wicks into the concrete through microscopic bleeder water channels until it reaches the coating surface. As the water comes through the slab, it brings calcium/sodium salts with it that degrade the bondline and cause the coating to delaminate.

Osmotic Moisture: actual water vapor transmission through the concrete slab condenses again at the bondline, and causes the same problem as in the capillary moisture case. This can happen when the water table is far below the slab with an improperly installed or missing vapor barrier. Three conditions are needed for osmosis to occur: a semi-permeable membrane, which can be the polymer primer or the upper layers of the slab, a gradient of ionic activity (soluble salts, which are indigenous to concrete), and a source of moisture vapor. If any one of these three things is removed, osmosis cannot occur.

Hydrostatic: the surrounding water table is higher than the concrete slab on grade. Because water seeks its own level, it is forced through the slab under pressure. Both the pressure and the water cause the coating to delaminate.

The volume of moisture that can pass through a slab depends on the porosity of the slab. Porosity is a direct result of the water/cement ratio in the concrete mix design. As the water/cement ratio increases, the porosity of the concrete increases exponentially.

How is moisture vapor transmission measured?

Top Secret recommends that every concrete slab be measured for moisture vapor transmission. Be aware that when going over an existing floor, the possibility exists that the floor being put down could “cap off” a floor that may be permeable. This results in blistering in the floor in the future. Any testing of the floor is a “snapshot” of the condition of the floor at the time of testing. It is important that your customer understands this. If there is no vapor retarder under the slab, or a vapor retarder has been punctured, the moisture content of the concrete will depend on the climate, landscaping runoff, etc.

Here are common moisture test methods to use:

An electronic moisture meter: This is a qualitative test that has the advantage of obtaining results in a matter of a few minutes. Take measurements every 500 square feet, and put the calcium chloride tests in the high reading areas. Total reliance on moisture meters is not advised. The calcium chloride test (ASTM F-1869) is a quantitative method used to determine moisture vapor transmission rates in a concrete slab. This is the test most flooring manufacturers use as the “go-no go” test.. Three tests should be done for the first 1000 square feet of floor, and one additional test for each additional 1000 square feet. The building must be acclimated at or near the temperature and relative humidity levels anticipated during occupancy. These tests will not be good indicators if the testing is done before the area is acclimatized indicated. It is important that any curing compounds or troweled on metal flakes be removed before testing is done, because they can give false low readings.

In-situ Relative Humidity Testing

ASTM F-2170-02 is also a quantitative test method. Holes are drilled into the concrete slab (3 for the first 1000 square feet, and 1 for every 1000 square feet thereafter). Sleeves are then inserted into the holes, and relative humidity probes are placed into the sleeves. Readings can be made as needed. The results are less impacted by ambient temperature and relative humidity conditions in the building than are the calcium chloride results. The testing can also be done at various depths in the slab, allowing for a more comprehensive picture of where there is moisture. Few U.S. flooring manufacturers have offered guidelines for the installation of their products based on these test results.

Dew Point Measurement- Dew Point is the temperature at which moisture will condense on a surface. No coatings should be applied unless the surface temperature is at least 5 degrees above this point. If there is condensing humidity on the concrete surface, your flooring material will not wet out and adhere properly.

By using a meter first and then the calcium chloride test in the potential problem areas, the number of definitive, quantitative tests needed can be reduced, and a good snapshot of what is happening in the slab can still be obtained. Draw a map of the floor; record where moisture tests were performed and the final result. Remember that the moisture vapor transmission rate measured is the rate for the period of time tested. Changes in drainage, broken piping, excessive precipitation, etc. can yield a slab with completely different moisture content in the future, particularly if the slab vapor retarder is absent or damaged. Testing needs to be done on the floor by duplicating the conditions under which the floor is to be used.

Measuring the amount of moisture in lightweight concrete is an area of concern. Calcium chloride tests can result in low readings because moisture is not moving through the slab. Elevated slabs can take many months before a non-porous flooring system can be installed. In-situ relative humidity testing may be the best way to predict a potential problem.

What can be done if the concrete has a high moisture level?

Investigate the possibility of installing a “moisture mitigation system”. These are commercially available and used to either limit the amount of moisture vapor to which the flooring system will be exposed, or completely stop the vapor transmission through the top of the slab. There are many companies offering these moisture mitigation systems.

What are the symptoms that your installed floor is failing due to a moisture problem?

Symptoms of high moisture on an already installed floor may include bubbles, blisters, pinholes, a brown, oily liquid being liberated through the floor, and/or delamination. Analysis of the liquid shows that it is comprised mostly of water, and it is water soluble, of iron due to corrosion of the rebar or reinforcing wire, and of alkali from the concrete mix. The color is due to dissolved or suspended soil, rust and salts. The pH will be >10. This liquid may contain trace components of the polymeric system. Sometimes, you will see delamination of a section of the floor. In this case, the bottom of the delaminated piece will be very smooth, and there will be traces of a white residue or rust.

What do you do to repair these areas?

Remove a 50 square foot section of the coating, wait 48 hours, and apply a calcium chloride test to determine the moisture levels. Do not merely re-coat the area- chances are the same problem will recur.

TS-2 Urethane Application Method Statement For Steel Surfaces In Marine Environment

Product Type: Aliphatic Urethane

Subject Substrate: Prepared Steel and Ferrous Metals

Recommended Primer: TS-6390 x 6392 Ever-Last Epoxy Primer
Summary: TS-2 Hard-Shell Urethane is a two to three coat protective corrosion control coating system for use on well prepared steel, ferrous metal and galvanized substrates. Acceptable for interior/exterior applications on aircraft, marine vessels, oil drilling rigs, pipelines, equipment, tools and infrastructure in harsh industrial, manufacturing, oil and gas refining industries where corrosive chemicals, fuel and solvents are present. Acceptable for use in constant immersion service, in harsh environments and extremes in temperature (see Performance Data Sheet, lab test results and MSDS for further information).

Preparation: Surface preparation is critical. Recommend abrasive blast to Near White Metal standards (SSPC-SP10/ ISO Sa2.5) to an anchor profile of ISO Sa2.5. All steel surface profiles should be 50 to 75 microns. NACE 2/SSPC-SP10/ISO Sa2.5). Previously painted surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned and free of residues, oily film, and loose paint chips. All rust, loose scale and contaminates must be thoroughly removed prior to the application of primer. Preparation should include wire brushing by hand, mechanical grinding and or sand blasting of all surfaces. Rust should be treated with TS-5679 Phos-Pro Rust Converting Metal Conditioner. Rust free and galvanized metals should be treated with TS-695 Etching Cleaner. Once all surfaces have been carefully prepared, rust, oil, grease and contaminates removed, the application of TS-6390 x 6392 Ever-Last Epoxy Primer may proceed. Surfaces treated with TS-5679 Phos-Pro must be primed within 24 hours (See Performance Data Sheets and MSDS for TS-5679 Phos-Pro and TS-695 Etching Cleaner for further information).

Application of TS-6390 x 6392 Epoxy Primer:

Mix A & B components together stirring thoroughly for five minutes.
Reduce when necessary with TS-620 Reducer. Use only factory recommend thinner/reducer. Stir in reducer thoroughly for 3-4 minutes. Let primer stand 20 minutes before proceeding.
Epoxy primer may be applied by brushing, roller or airless spray. Recommended application is one coat applied @ 3-4 mils wet. Dry to the touch 30 minutes, time to recoat, 4-24 hours.

Application of TS-2 Urethane Top Coat:

A Mix A & B components together stirring thoroughly for five minutes.

Reduce when necessary with TS-620 Reducer. Use only factory recommend thinner/reducer. Stir in reducer thoroughly for 3-4 minutes. Let stand 20 minutes before proceeding.
TS-2 Urethane may be applied by brushing, roller or airless spray. Recommended application is one coat applied @ 3 mils followed by a second coat applied within 24 hours at 4 mils. Recommended dry film build is 2-3 mils. Dry to the touch 30 minutes to 1 hour, time to recoat, 6-24 hours, sand between coats after 48 hrs.

Maintenance: Weld seams or other areas showing deterioration rust must be isolated, blasted, wire brushed or ground, cleaned with TS-5679 Phos-Pro, primed with TS 6390 x 6392 Ever-Last Epoxy Primer, repainted with two coats of TS-2 Hard-Shell Urethane per recommended application guidelines.

APPLYING POOL-COAT PRODUCTS

This application instructions sheet has been prepared for use with all Pool-Coat products. Please read this document in its entirety before proceeding. New concrete and masonry surfaces should be allowed to cure a minimum of thirty days before application. If preexisting paint is present your first steps should be to establish how many coats are present. Remove a chunk of the old coating with a knife blade and count the layers of old paint. When four or more layers of old paint are present stripping off all the old coatings is strongly recommended. Make sure all paint and sanding debris are removed from the pool before painting.

1. Preparation. Begin by making your repairs and scuffing previously painted surfaces. 150 grit sandpaper is recommended. For best results, remove old paint when four or more coats are present. Be sure to choose submersible and paintable calking, fillers and patching materials.

2. Clean. Begin by power-washing. Follow by cleaning with an etching cleaner. We recommend TS-695 Etching Cleaner which includes phosphoric acid. It removes leaching lime, contaminates, grease and oil. It is very effective, easy and safe to use. Some recommend TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate), however, detergents can inhibit the adhesion of paint when not completely removed so be sure to rinse thoroughly, preferably with a power washer before moving on. Muriatic acid is acceptable, however, it is considerably more difficult to use. Apply TS-695 Etching Cleaner according to label directions and rinse thoroughly. Repeat this step when evidence of stubborn oil stains or wax is evident.

3. Dry thoroughly. All surfaces to be painted or repaired must be allowed to dry thoroughly before application. A simple Do-It-Yourself moisture test is to take a rubber floor mat out of your car and place it on the surface to be painted. Leave it there for a few hours. When removed there should be no evidence of moisture on the mat or on the surface. Wait until there is not sign of moisture before moving forward. If you have access to a moisture meter (and know how to use it properly) your maximum moisture content is 19%. Do not apply repair material or paint to substrates that contain over 19% moisture content.

4. Select the right primer and sundries. Pool-Coat products are self priming on concrete or masonry in two coats. Steel, aluminum, fiberglass, plastic, vinyl and gunnite will require TS-664 Etching Primer or TS-6390 Ever-Last Epoxy Primer. Dark colors may be top coated with a clear coat to protect the color from fading due to UV and pool chemicals. These products may be sprayed, however, the typical application method is by roller coat. Recommend non-shedding roller covers and natural bristle brushes. Apply primer evenly avoiding heavy build up. Read and follow primer label directions implicitly.

5. Its time to paint! Pool-Coat products are sprayable or may be brushed or rolled. Film build is higher with roller applications. You can brush the edges and drain areas and roll the remainder evenly and quickly always keeping a wet edge. Apply evenly avoiding ponding or heavy build up. Two coats will last longer than one. Allow 12 to 24 hours for the first coat to dry then apply the second coat. Apply subsequent coats within 48 hours or sand between coats. A clear coat may be applied to protect the color.

Pool-Coat Products are guaranteed to adhere to properly prepared surfaces, withstand pool chemicals and constant submersion duty for 10 years. Temperatures above 80F or high humidity conditions may cause mud cracking. Do not paint in hot or intense direct sunlight. In the future wear and tear may require a maintenance coat reapplication. Repairs are easily made since these products blend well. We hope this information helps you achieve the results you want and that our product will give you years of problem free service.

1-Part Epoxy (TS-100) Application Method Statement For Steel Surfaces in a Marine Environment

Product Type: Silicone Alkyd Epoxy-ester blend

Subject Substrate: Prepared Steel and Ferrous Metals

Recommended Primer: TS-6390 x 6392 Ever-Last Epoxy Primer

Summary: 1-Part Epoxy (TS100) is a protective corrosion control coating system for use on well prepared steel, ferrous metal and galvanized substrates. It is acceptable for interior/exterior applications on all marine surfaces including vessels, oil drilling rigs, pipelines, equipment, tools and infrastructure in harsh industrial, manufacturing, oil and gas refining industries where corrosive chemicals, fuel and solvents are present. It is acceptable for use in long term constant immersion service, in harsh environments and extremes in temperature (see Performance Data Sheet, lab test results and MSDS for further information).

Previously painted surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned and free of residues, oily film and loose paint chips. All rust, loose scale and contaminates must be thoroughly removed prior to the application of primer. Preparation should include wire brushing by hand, mechanical grinding and or sand blasting of all surfaces.

Rust should be treated with TS-5679 Phos-Pro Rust Converting Metal Conditioner. Rust free and galvanized metals should be treated with TS-695 Etching Cleaner. Once all surfaces have been carefully prepared, rust, oil, grease and contaminates removed, the application of TS-6390 Ever-Last Epoxy Primer may proceed. Surfaces treated with TS-5679 Phos-Pro or TS-695 Etching Cleaner must be primed within 24 hours (See Performance Data Sheets and MSDS for TS-5679 Phos-Pro and TS-695 Etching Cleaner for further information).

Application of TS-6390 Polyamide Epoxy Primer:

Mix A & B components together stirring thoroughly for five minutes.

Reduce as necessary with TS-620 Reducer. Use only factory recommend thinner/reducer. Stir in reducer thoroughly for 3-4 minutes. Let primer stand 20 minutes before proceeding.

Epoxy primer may be applied by brushing, roller or airless spray. Apply evenly avoiding heavy build up. One or more coats may be applied as desired @ 3-4 mils WFT. Recommended minimum DFT is 4 mils. Epoxy primer is typically dry to the touch 1-2 hours depending on method of application. Time to recoat, 4-24 hours. Scuff between coats when recoated after 48 hours.

Application of 1-Part Epoxy Top Coat:

Stir thoroughly for five minutes before moving forward. Reduce as necessary with TS-101 Thinner Reducer. Use only factory recommend thinner/reducer. Do not substitute. Stir in thinner reducer thoroughly for 2-3 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes before proceeding.

1-Part Epoxy may be applied by brushing, roller or airless spray. Apply evenly avoiding heavy build up. Recommended application is one coat applied @ 2 mils WFT followed by a second coat within 24 hours at 2 mils WFT. Apply a third coat within 24 hours @ 2 mils WFT to achieve the minimum recommended DFT. Recommended DFT is a minimum of 3.4 mils. 1-Part Epoxy is typically dry to the touch 1-2 hours. Time to recoat is 6-24 hours. Sand between coats after 48 hrs.

Maintenance: Weld seams or other areas showing deterioration rust must be isolated, blasted, wire brushed or ground, cleaned according to SSPC / NACE Standards. TS-5679 Phos-Pro or TS-695 Etching Cleaner must be used according to manufacturer guidelines, recommendations, label directions and standard industry practices. TS-6390 Ever-Last Epoxy Primer must be used according to manufacturer guidelines, recommendations, label directions and standard industry practices. 1-Part Epoxy must be applied according to manufacturer guidelines, recommendations, label directions and standard industry practices.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR APPLYING SUPER-FLECK EXP FAST DRY SYSTEM

This instruction sheet has been prepared for the EXP FAST DRY Floor Coating System. The recommended wet film thickness (WFT) for EXP is 4-6 mils, and approximately 2-3 mils for the urethane clear coat. This system has been designed to produce high performance results quickly and easily. Allow new concrete to cure 28 days before application. When applied over existing floor coatings we recommend doing a small test area before committing to the entire project to prevent compatibility issues. Best results are obtained when existing coatings are removed. These directions are for roller coat application but this system may be sprayed. Please be sure to follow all directions and labeling instructions.

1. REPAIR & DEGREASE: Sanding, grinding or blasting is beneficial but not required except when circumstances or conditions necessitate. All repairs should be completed prior to cleaning or application. Be sure all repair materials are paintable. Use TSP only where heavy grease or oil require removal. Rinse TSP thoroughly with water.

3. ETCH: Leaching lime and contaminates require new and old concrete surfaces to be etched. Mix TS-695 Etching Cleaner with water on a 1:1 basis. Apply to pre-wet concrete, broom in for 10-15 minutes, rinse thoroughly. Allow to dry thoroughly (usually a minimum of 48 hours) before moving forward. Test for by throwing down a rubber floor mat. When there is no evidence of moisture (moisture, dew or discoloration) the surface is dry enough to proceed.

4. APPLY EXP BASE COAT: Stir TS-4985 Ever-Last EXP thoroughly. EXP does not require a “part B” catalyst and is self priming. We recommend using a 3/8” or ½” wool roller cover. Roll a 2’ x 8’ strip avoiding heavy build up and overlaps. Immediately broadcast Super-Fleck Acrylic chips to still wet surface. EXP dries fast so don’t delay or the surface may be too dry for the chips to stick! With a hand full of chips held head high sprinkle them onto the still wet surface allowing them to float down evenly. Repeat this process until entire surface has been treated. Allow to stand 2-3 hours before applying clear coat.

5. APPLY CLEAR COAT: Stir TS-2 Urethane Clear A&B components together thoroughly. We recommend using a ¼” Mohair or wool roller cover. Apply evenly avoiding ponding and heavy build up. Correct wet film thickness is 2-3 mils maximum. One or two coats of clear urethane may be applied depending on individual requirements. Allow to stand a minimum of 12 hours before allowing light foot traffic and 96 hours minimum before allowing motorized traffic on the new finish. Do not allow moisture on new surface for 48 hours minimum.

Clear coating is best when applied to color coating within 48 hours. Temperatures above 70F or low humidity conditions may require the use of TS-625 Decelerator to reduce flash times. Thin only with TS-605 Thinner. Thinning will be required below 50F to improve viscosity. Repairs are easily made since these products blend well. In the future heavy traffic may cause the wear layer to require a maintenance coat of TS-2 urethane Clear. We hope this information helps you achieve the results you want and that our product will give you years of problem free service.

APPLICATIONS FOR 1 PART EPOXY

1 Part Epoxy is remarkable because it is catalyzed by oxygen rather than a chemical reaction between two components, like typical epoxies, making it the latest in coatings technology. If there is such a thing as a paint alternative this is it! What we have created is a single component, oxygen cured, self leveling, waterproof coating that produces a film that remains both hard and flexible at the same time making it unique. Paint buyers are amazed when they see for themselves how this impressive product performs. Industry veterans recognize this product as being something very special. It is a one of a kind super-premium coating that may be unlike anything you have used before so please consider the following application information carefully before moving forward with your application plans.

1 Part Epoxy adheres to almost anything and dries to a hard high gloss finish. It self-levels, inhibits rust, and resists chemicals, spilled fuel, acids and brake fluid. It is impact resistant to 500 PSI, heat resistant to more than 400 F, UV resistant, color-fast, non-chalking and it resists cracking, chipping and peeling. It offers outstanding performance in most marine, industrial, commercial, automotive, floor, roof, farm and at home applications. It provides outstanding adhesion to wood, concrete, masonry, tile, asphalt, composites and a variety of Metals. It is easy to use because it can be brushed, rolled or sprayed and it cleans up easily. It is a low build, high performance coating that has been designed to go on thin and out perform high build coatings. It produces a non-toxic dry film and is approved for food service applications. It retains its color and gloss without waxing, buffing or the application of a clear coating. It is economical to use because it covers two to three times the area of typical paint because its maximum dry film thickness is only two mils, half the thickness of a sheet of paper!

Where can I use it?

WOOD: Apply to all interior or exterior wood products for a tough, pliable, weather-resistant finish. Ideal for use on boats, decks, benches, furniture, houses, shingles, trim gutters and machinery. Locks out water, moisture and prevents rot.

METAL: May be applied direct to well prepared steel. It resists rust and corrosion because it adheres chemically to clean dry metal. It self levels to a glass-smooth finish that is water, acid and grease-resistant. Use on boats, trailers, machinery, equipment, tanks, pipes, fences and water tanks.

CONCRETE/MASONRY: Forms a non-penetrating film that resists chipping, cracking, or peeling. Use on garage floors, walkways, walls, steps, driveways, basement floors, roofing materials and more.

FIBERGLASS: For cars, boats, aircraft, roofs, appliances, kitchen, baths, etc. Provides rich color to surfaces on which ordinary paint cannot be used. Unbeatable adhesion yet remains flexible and retains its gloss. 1 Part Epoxy may be wet sanded and buffed to a high gloss finish.

How does it perform?

ADHESION: 1 Part Epoxy has the highest possible rating for adhesion. It withstands severe impact on both sides of test panels with no visible sign of failure. The film may survive long after the mechanical parts collapse. Bonds to metal, plastic, wood, rubber, leather, canvas, ceramics and concrete.

ACID RESISTANCE: Even long exposure to hydrochloric acid has little effect on a surface coated with 1 Part Epoxy. Expect excellent results when coating car parts, water tanks, even offshore drilling rigs.

FOOD SERVICE: Approved for use in any food service application; human or animal. It has excellent resistance to photographic chemicals, good electrical insulating properties, resistance to lubricants, mineral oils, vegetable oils and grease. It has outstanding resistance to chemical fumes and a high resistance to burning. Expect temperature resistance from minus 50°F to 400°F when fully cured.

COLOR & GLOSS RETENTION: 1 Part Epoxy creates a smooth, easy-to-clean finish. It is a beautiful film that reflects the beauty of light unlike any other coating. Color and gloss retention is excellent because UV inhibitors block out destructive rays from the sun.

FLEXIBILITY: Flexibility is unequaled! Steel test panels break under repeated flexing before any sign of cracking, peeling, or loss of adhesion. Now you can pre-coat with 1 Part Epoxy then crimp, stamp or form tubes, cans, crown, or cap closures without cracking or flaking!

IMPACT-ABRASION RESISTANCE: Walk-on tests of floor finishes prove the superiority of this formulation. It’s tough against impacts and abrasions. It takes daily scrubbings and repeated buffing on hand rails, doors and in public places where finishes must withstand repeated scouring. Even an impact of 500 PSI will not break the cured film.

APPLICATION: Apply by brush, roller coat, flow coat, dip or spray. It is dry to the touch in 2-4 hours. Provides an air-cured film with most of the properties of a baked finish. Meets or exceed stringent USDA, FDA & EPA regulations and standards. Acceptable for use in marine, aircraft, automotive, chemical manufacturing, food and drug plants, warehouses, floors, roofs and government applications.

How is the Clear version different?

Now for the first time boat owners have a viable alternative to varnish. Unlike varnish 1 Part Epoxy Clear produces a protective film that is flexible enough to expand and contract with marine wood while being hard enough to protect from abrasions and impacts. The addition of TS-160 Accelerator/Hardener is optional with it being used almost exclusively in high traffic floor areas and in engine rooms or boiler rooms to increase chemical resistance. When using 160 A/H with 1 Part Epoxy Clear in marine topside applications we recommend using only 50% of the recommended volume.

What should I watch out for?

Incompatibly issues: 1 Part Epoxy is a silicone epoxy hybrid blend making it unlike most top coats. Use it only with recommended Top Secret Coatings thinners, accelerator/hardener, gloss reducer and primers. Apply it over any primer or topcoat, however, be careful when applying other solvent based coatings over it! Watch for compatibility issues such as wrinkling or bubbling. If you intend to coat over it we strongly recommend trying a small test before moving on.

Watch your thickness: This product is designed to go on thinner than typical paint. Your maximum wet film thickness is only 1-2 mils on a per coat basis. If it is applied to thickly it may not catalyze properly underneath which may lead to a failed application. It has been specifically formulated to go on thin, self level, spread further and cover far better than typical paint.

Runs and sags: If it runs or sags it has been applied too thickly. This product may be different than anything you may have used previously so we encourage test applications.

Cure times: 1 Part Epoxy is catalyzed by oxygen rather than chemically. The full cure may take a little bit longer than expected. The curing process should be allowed to be completed naturally or with the addition of TS-160 Accelerator/Hardener before entering full service duty. We recommend the fingernail mark test to determine hardness. When it passes the fingernail mark test you know it has cured hard enough to enter full duty service.

Drying Problems: If after applying the top coat or clear coat, you notice that the painted area is soft and can be easily indented with your fingernail. The paint has been applied to thickly or you didn't let the basecoat dry long enough before applying the next coat. Solution - Just wait and let the paint dry thoroughly. This could take several weeks depending on conditions.

Heat: Do not add heat. Best application conditions are at 70F with good air movement. Pre-heating the paint or the use of a heater or oven may actually delay cure times. To speed the cure use TS-160 Accelerator/Hardener or use a fan to increase air circulation.

Aggregate additives: We recommend Gaco-Grip (ground walnut shells) for added traction. Add Gaco-Grip to the first coat then top coat with 1 Part Epoxy to encase it. Stir regularly to keep it suspended. Mops will not hang up on the surface once applied.

Thinning: This product’s unusually high solid content means that in most applications you are going to want to thin 10%-40% depending on your application, spray tip size, desired control, equipment and application method. 1 Part Epoxy may not atomize properly without dilution. Proper thinning is required to achieve a leveled finish. Use TS-101 Thinner. Do not substitute.

How should it be applied?

ALUMINUM & FIBERGLASS

Repair all damage, scratches, voids and cracks.
Sand or scuff the entire surface to improve adhesion.
Pre-clean. Recommend using TS-695 Etching Cleaner prior to the application of primer.
Primer is always required on Gel-Coat, aluminum, fiberglass, galvanized and stainless steel surfaces. The recommended primer for these surfaces is TS-664 Aluminum & Fiberglass Primer which is an excellent, government spec, high-build sandable “etching” primer. Available in White for light colors and Red Oxide for dark colors.
Sand. Once the primer has been applied and allowed to dry at least one hour then sand lightly to remove imperfections in preparation for the top coat. Recommend finish sanding with 150-200 grit sandpaper.
Apply top coat. One or more thin coats are acceptable as desired. Suggested dry film thickness is 2-3 mils. For best results recoat within 12-48 hours. There is no need to sand between applications when recoated within 48 hours.
Additional coats: Additional coats are optional. Multiple coats may be desirable to increase film build or longevity. Multiple coats of TS-100 Epoxy Clear may be applied to increase its brilliance and depth.
Curing. Top coat film should be fully cured before repairing any runs or sags. Allow top coat film to cure thoroughly before entering full service duty.

NOTE: TS-160 Accelerator/Hardener is optional. It’s use increases hardness, chemical resistance and speeds cure times. Its use may slightly reduce the gloss. This product will reduce gloss to a Semi-Gloss finish and increase hardness. It is not to be used in combination with TS-160 A/H. Boats: TS-160 Accelerator/Hardener is optional in this application. Trailered boats should not be transported until the film has been allowed to cure to prevent roller damage. Floors: TS-160 Accelerator/Hardener is recommended in this application. Floor surfaces should not be considered ready for full service duty until allowed to cure.

MASONRY, BRICK & POROUS TILE

Repair: Repair and fill all voids, cracks and divots.
Clean thoroughly: Recommend bead blasting, power washing or sanding to remove loose scale or old paint. Recommend using TS-695 Etching Cleaner to open the pores and remove leaching lime. Allow to dry thoroughly before painting.
Moisture test: Test the moisture content of the concrete by duct taping a piece of clear plastic to the floor. If water droplets appear after four hours it is too wet. Wait until it tests dry before beginning the application process.
Recommended Primer: 1 Part Epoxy is self priming in two coats. When applying direct to porous surfaces thin first coat 25% with TS-101 Thinner.
Apply Topcoat: Apply first coat. Wait 12-48 hours before applying the second coat. Sanding is not required between coats when recoated within 48 hours. Apply second coat without dilution.
Additional coats: Additional coats are optional. Multiple coats may be desired to increase film build or increase longevity. CLEAR: Apply multiple coats to increase brilliance and depth.

NOTE: TS-160 Accelerator / Hardener is required in all flooring applications, however, it is optional on other surfaces. It’s use increases hardness, chemical resistance and speeds cure times.

CONCRETE FLOORS

Repair: Repair and fill all voids, cracks and divots.
Clean thoroughly: Use TS-695 Etching Cleaner to open the pores and remove leaching lime. Allow to dry thoroughly. Recommend blasting, power washing or sanding to remove loose scale or old paint.
Moisture test: Test the moisture content of the concrete by taping clear plastic to the floor. If water droplets appear after four hours it’s too wet. Wait until it tests dry before moving forward.
Recommended Primer: 1 Part Epoxy is self priming on concrete in two coats. When applying direct to porous surfaces thin first coat 25% with TS-101 Thinner. TS-664 Etching Primer or TS-6390 Ever-Last Epoxy Primer may be used when desired. Coverage is approx 400-450 square feet when applied direct to concrete and approx 500 square feet over primer.
Apply Topcoat: Wait 12-48 hours before applying the second coat. Sanding is not required between coats when recoated within 48 hours. The second coat is applied without dilution. Your coverage will be approx 500 sq ft per gallon.
Additional coats: Additional coats are optional. Multiple coats may be desired to increase film build or increase longevity. Multiple coats of 1 Part Epoxy Clear to increase its brilliance and depth.

NOTE: TS-160 Accelerator/Hardener is required in all flooring applications, however, it is optional on other surfaces. It’s use increases hardness, chemical resistance and speeds cure times.

IRON & STEEL

Preparation: Remove all rust, dirt and mill scale with a grinder or sander.
Pre-clean: Use a good pre-paint cleaner. Recommend TS-5679 Phos-Pro Metal Conditioner on rusty surfaces to convert rust to a paintable oxide. For clean bright metal surfaces we recommend using TS-695 Etching Cleaner.
Apply primer: Recommend TS-900 Fabrication Primer, TS-664 Aluminum & Fiberglass Primer or TS-6390 Ever-Last Epoxy Primer.
Sand: Once the primer has been applied and has been allowed to cure acceptably. Sand lightly to remove imperfections in preparation for the top coat. Recommend finish sanding with 150 grit sandpaper.
Apply top coat: Apply one, two or three thin coats of 1 Part Epoxy as desired. Finished dry film thickness is usually 2-3 mils. For best results recoat within 24-48 hours. There is no need to sand between applications.
Additional coats: Additional coats are optional. Multiple coats may be desired to increase film build or increase longevity. Multiple coats of 1 Part Epoxy Clear may be applied to increase its brilliance and depth.
Cure time: Top coat film should be fully cured before repairing any runs or sags. Allow top coat film to cure thoroughly before entering full service duty.

NOTE: TS-160 Accelerator/Hardener is not typically used on iron and steel except in flooring applications. It’s use increases hardness, chemical resistance and speeds cure times.

WOOD

Repairs: Repair and fill all scratches, voids, splits and cracks with paintable wood filler. Finish sand the entire surface using 200 or higher grit sandpaper.
Sanding sealer: Sealing is recommended when applying 1 Part Epoxy direct to wood. We suggest diluting 1 Part Epoxy 50% and using it as a seal coat.
Sand. Scuff or sand lightly with fine grit sandpaper to remove imperfections.
Apply Primer. 1 Part Epoxy can be self priming on wood; however, primer may be desired. Wood must be 19% or less moisture content at time of application. We recommend solvent based primers such as TS-664 Fiberglass & Aluminum Primer, TS-6390 Ever-Last Epoxy Primer or TS-900 Fabrication Primer.
Sand. Once primer has been allowed to cure; sand or scuff lightly to remove imperfections.
Apply top coat. Recommend two applications as the top coat. Finished dry film thickness is usually 2-3 mils. For best results recoat within 12-48 hours. There is no need to sand between applications if applied within 48 hours.
Additional coats: Additional coats are optional. Multiple coats may be desired to increase film build or increase longevity. Multiple coats increase brilliance and depth.
Cure time. Top coat film should be fully cured before repairing runs or sags.

NOTE: 1 Part Epoxy is acceptable for use on pressure treated wood. TS-160 Accelerator/Hardener is required in all flooring applications, however, it is optional on other surfaces. Its use increases hardness, resistance to chemicals and speeds cure times.

Boats: TS-160 Accelerator/Hardener is optional in this application. Trailered boats should not be transported until the film has been allowed to cure to prevent roller damage.

GLAZED TILE, SHOWER STALLS, BATH TUBS, SINKS, COUNTERTOPS & GLASS

Repair: Repair all damage, scratches, voids and cracks.
Sand or scuff: Rough up surface to improve adhesion.
Pre-clean. Recommend using TS-695 Etching Cleaner prior to the application of primer.
Primer: Primer is always recommended on nonporous materials including glass, fiberglass and glazed tile. We recommend TS-664 Aluminum & Fiberglass Primer which is an etching primer.
Sand: Once the primer has been applied and allowed to dry sand as needed to remove imperfections.
Apply top coat: Apply thin coats as desired. Finished dry film thickness is usually 2-3 mils. For best results recoat within 12-48 hours. There is no need to sand between applications when applied within 48 hours.
Additional coats: Additional coats are optional. Multiple coats are desirable in many applications to increase film build or longevity.
Cure time. Top coat film should be fully cured before repairing any runs or sags.

NOTE: TS-160 Accelerator/Hardener is optional, however, we recommend it in all sink, countertop and flooring applications. It’s use increases hardness, chemical resistance and speeds cure times. Floors: Floor surfaces should not be considered ready for full service duty until allowed to fully cure.

ASPHALT DRIVEWAYS, WALKWAYS & ROOFING MATERIALS

Repair and fill all voids, cracks and divots.
Clean: Recommend power washing to remove dirt, loose scale or old paint. Use TS-695 Etching Cleaner to open the pores and improve adhesion. Allow to dry thoroughly before moving forward.
Application: Apply product directly to clean dry surface without dilution. Brush, roll or spray. Primer is optional. Where Primer is desired we recommend TS-6390 Ever-Last Epoxy Primer or TS 664-Etching Primer. One or more thin coats may be applied as desired. Finished dry film thickness is usually 2-3 mils. For best results recoat within 12-48 hours.
Cure time. Allow top coat film to cure thoroughly before entering full service duty.

NOTE: TS-160 Accelerator/Hardener is required in all flooring applications, however, it is optional on other surfaces. It’s use increases hardness, chemical resistance and speeds cure times.

Spray Application Instructions

This information will help you achieve a better finish when spraying. Please be sure to read all instructions, including this information before spraying. Remember, this is unique and may be different from anything you have used previously so please read carefully.

Recommended tip for airless Sprayers: .015 to .021 tip. Thinning will be necessary. Recommended thinner is TS-101 Thinner. Do not substitute with other products.

Before doing anything else, stir thoroughly for 4 – 5 minutes with a lifting motion to bring the heavy solids to the top. Do not shake.

Thin as necessary, typically 10-25% depending on the ambient temperature, film thickness desired and type of equipment used. When adding TS-160 Accelerator/Hardener, mix to proper proportions and stir in thoroughly. Without the use of TS-160 your total cure time can be extended to as many as 10-20 days depending on temperature, humidity and air movement.

Let paint stand for 10-15 minutes. Before beginning to paint, stir thoroughly one more time and strain the paint TWO times. This is very important for a good sprayed finish.

Spray one medium coat; let set for 30-40 minutes. Spray a second heavier coat. Your maximum wet film thickness is 2 mils.

This product is dew point sensitive. High humidity may slow dry times and could cause it to look “milky” or cause it to blush (loose its sheen). Wait until the humidity is lower if this is a concern.

NOTE: 1 Part Epoxy is catalyzed by oxygen, it is not chemically catalyzed like typical epoxies. If you want to improve cure times your best option is to improve the movement of air over the curing film surface. With or without the addition of TS-160 Accelerator/Hardener you can expect the film to be soft at first. Without the use of TS-160 you can expect to see approximately 70% of the total cure within one week the film will continue its natural curing process for 2-3 weeks, depending on film thickness, air movement, temperature and humidity. Once the total cure has been achieved you can expect Part Epoxy to provide outstanding impact and abrasion resistance. With TS-160 you can expect the total cure within 7 days. In an attempt to speed the cure time we tried baking the paint at 150 degrees, but it just got softer and took longer to cure. Baking the film has no beneficial results do not add heat to the curing process. After 2 days the finish will still mark or scratch easily so you do not want to put this coating into full service duty too soon. It will take time to get that “TOUGH” finish you expect from this product.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR APPLYING TS-2 HARD-SHELL URETHANE TO EXISTING PAINT

This application instructions sheet has been prepared for applying TS-2 Hard-Shell Urethane to existing paint in high abuse high traffic areas in harsh environments. This product has been designed to produce a low build high performance film. It is not a high build (thick) product so it should not be applied heavily. Applying one or two thin coats will perform better than if it is caked on heavily. DO NOT paint in hot direct sunlight. Paint only in indirect sunlight, in the shade or in darkness.

1. CLEAN: Use a cleaner or degreaser to remove contaminates. This is your first step. Rinse thoroughly. We recommend TS-695 Etching Cleaner. Mix TS-695 Etching Cleaner on a 1:1 Basis with water, broom in, rinse thoroughly. Allow to dry THOROUGHLY before proceeding. Sanding, grinding or blasting is recommended whenever possible but not required.

2. MIXING: Stir the A & B components together thoroughly with a lifting motion. There is no induction time so apply immediately. Brush roll or spray applications are acceptable.

3. APPLICATION: Apply evenly avoiding ponding and heavy build up.

4. DRY & CURE: Best when allowed to stand 24 hours before allowing foot traffic or 48+ hours for motorized traffic on the new surface. Allow 5-7 days for finish to achieve its full hardness and chemical resistance.

WARNING:

DO NOT paint in hot direct sunlight. Paint only in indirect sunlight, in the shade or in darkness.

Pot life is 1 hour. Do not mix more than is needed for immediate use.

NOTE: All bare surfaces must be pre-coated or primed. We recommend TS-6390 Ever-Last Epoxy Primer. Do not apply TS-2 Hard-Shell Urethane to bare surfaces without the recommended primer. CLEAR COAT: Once dry, (6-48 hrs) TS-2 Hard-Shell Urethane Clear may be applied. Clear is optional but highly recommended as an added wear layer, increasing durability and chemical resistance. Temperatures above 80F or low humidity conditions may require the use of TS-625 Decelerator to increase the flash time.

REFINISHING TUBS, SINKS, SHOWERSTALLS, HOT TUBS & COUNTERTOPS (TS-2)

This information has been prepared for reference when resurfacing tubs, tile, sinks, shower stalls, hot tubs and countertops with the Hard-Shell Urethane (TS-2) refinishing system. These products are easy to use, highly durable and economical producing a beautiful finish that really lasts. It provides excellent coverage and self levels without leaving brush or roller marks when properly applied however, best results are typically achieved in spray applications. It may be applied to virtually any surface including Metal, Fiberglass, Wood, Vinyl, Concrete, Masonry, Tile, Porcelain, Formica, Plastic, Composites and Glass. It has been designed to go on thin and out perform high build coatings. A supplied air respirator is required whenever spraying TS-2 Urethane.

NOTE: Please read the following information carefully before moving forward with your project. All products are best when used at room temperatures above 60 F. Dry and cure times will be extended without proper ventilation! These products can be dangerous when misused. The customer or end user(s) assume full responsibility for its proper use and application, as outlined in these installation instructions. Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) are available upon request.

What to watch out for: Incompatibly issues: Use TS-2 only with recommended thinners and primers. If you are painting over preexisting paint be sure it has cured before proceeding. Mixing instructions: Pour the contents of component B container into Component A container in its entirety. Stir thoroughly with a lifting motion for 3-5 minutes. There is no induction time. The mixing ratio is 7:1 (by volume). Pot life is 4 hours. Watch your thickness: This product must be applied at the proper thickness. The maximum wet film thickness is only 3 mils which is less than the thickness of a sheet of paper. If it is applied to thickly the coating may not dry or cure properly which may lead to extended dry and cure time or a failed application. TS-2 has been specifically formulated to go on thin and self level allowing it to spread further and cover better. Runs and sags: If you get any runs or sagging, usually, it has been applied to thick. TS-2 may be different than what you may have used previously so you may want to do a small test before committing to the entire project. Cure times: Hard-Shell Urethane is a two component catalyst cured aliphatic urethane coating system that is typically dry to the touch in 30 minutes and is dry enough for careful light foot traffic in 6-8 hours. Allow 5-7 days for it to achieve its full performance capabilities or film failure may occur. If the film remains soft after 24 hours it has likely been applied too heavily. Increasing air movement across the curing film is the best way to speed dry and cure times. For faster dry, use TS-6075 Accelerator. Drying Problems: After applying the topcoat or clear coat, you notice that the painted area is soft and can be easily indented with your fingernail you probably didn't let the basecoat dry long enough before applying the next coat. Solution - Just wait and let the paint dry. Allow more time until cured hard. Thinning: Hard-Shell Urethane is may require thinning in spray applications. Recommended reduction is 5-10% depending on variations in temperature, humidity, equipment, spray tip size, desired control and application requirements. Proper thinning is required to achieve a leveled finish. Use only TS-620 Thinner. To prevent incompatibility issues and achieve the best results DO NOT substitute any other reducer or thinner.

1. Preparation: Completely remove all silicone or caulking from fixtures with a razor blade then sand off any remaining film on the fixture. Repair all damage, deep scratches, voids and cracks with a paintable repair material. All surfaces to be refinishes must be sanded with 80-100 grit sandpaper to remove paint droppings, excess caulking or other unwanted imperfections prior to application. Fiberglass and like surfaces must be thoroughly sanded to roughen the surface prior to applying the primer. (Exceptions are Formica countertops, cultured marble and plastics. These surfaces require a light sanding with 300-400 grit sandpaper. Rust may be removed with a wire brush.

2. Clean: Recommend using TS-695 Etching Cleaner. Apply masking tape to trim prior to applying Etching Cleaner. Recommend wearing safety goggles, latex gloves and a solvent rated dust mask or respirator. Avoid splashing etching solution on bare skin. Apply Etching Cleaner 100% strength using a disposable paint brush. Do not allow solution to run onto any unmasked surfaces because it will deglaze them. Work the etching solution into the surface with a scrub brush or pad for 10 minutes. It is acceptable to do the work in sections. Rinse surface thoroughly after 10 minutes with clean water. An old towel or paper towels may be used to remove moisture from the fixture. WARNING: Even the smallest amount of moisture may ruin your job. All surfaces must be allowed to dry thoroughly and completely before proceeding with your project.

3. Apply Primer: Etching Primer (TS-664) is always required. This is an excellent high-build sandable “etching” primer available in White for light colors and Red Oxide for dark colors. Stir primer thoroughly with a lifting motion to suspend heavy solids from bottom of container. Apply Etching Primer evenly with a soft natural bristle brush or ¼” -3/8” wool or mohair roller cover. Recommended dry thickness is 4 mils. Once the primer has been allowed to dry and cure 2+ hours it can be sanded lightly with 200 grit sandpaper to remove imperfections in preparation for the top coat. It is OK to proceed without sanding. Primer must be thoroughly dry before topcoating.

4. Mix and thin epoxy: Stir Hard-Shell Urethane thoroughly with a lifting motion to suspend heavy solids and colorants from bottom of container. Thin only as needed. Spray applications typically require 5-10% dilution, brush and roll 0-5% dilution depending weather, humidity and type of equipment. Stir in TS-620 Thinner with a lifting motion. For spray applications we recommend straining the paint and stirring one more time. NOTE: The use of TS-6075 Accelerator is strictly optional. It is a highly effective additive that increases hardness, speeds the dry and cure time as well as increasing resistance to abrasions and impacts. After mixing paint and thinner, add TS-6075 Accelerator at a rate of 2 ounces per quart of paint or 8 ounces (one-half pint) per gallon. Mix thoroughly. Pot life with additives is approximately 1 hour.

5. Apply urethane color: Spray: Recommended tip for airless Sprayers: .015 to .021 tip. Begin by spraying 1 light coat and finish with a second good, wet, shiny coat waiting 10-15 minutes for the coating to flash prior to applying each coat. Normally 2 coats is all that is required. Avoid runs; if you do get any runs, wipe the run off with a paper towel lightly saturated with acetone. Brush & Roll: Begin by brushing edges with a brush then roll the rest maintaining a wet edge. Avoid overlaps and heavy application. Areas with too heavy build up may take days to dry and cure so avoid heavy build up. When Super-Fleck Chips, sparkles, flakes and other decorative elements are desired to enhance the texture or appearance they are evenly sprinkled onto the sill wet surface of the color coat in brush and roll applications. In spray applications they are sprinkled onto the still wet surface of the second color coat creating the desired appearance.

6. Apply urethane clear: The clear coat application is required to seal in Super-Fleck Chips and like decorative elements, protects the color coat and acts as the wear layer. Brush, roll or spray according to guidelines as seen in steps 4 and 5. When finished, remove masking tape and paper. Do not allow fixture to dry with masking tape or paper left on it. Allow to Dry 24 hours depending on temperature, humidity and ventilation – DO NOT USE SURFACE OR ALLOW PAINTED AREA TO GET WET FOR 36-48 HOURS. Color, low temperature, high humidity and poor ventilation adversely affect drying times. CLEAN UP: Use TS-620 Thinner or Acetone. CARE & CLEANING: Do not use abrasive cleanser, scrub pads or bleach which will damage the finish.